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Style and society on the Mary Rose

What can clothing tell us about the people on board?

Some of the most impressive objects found on the wreck of the Mary Rose were items of clothing, made from leather, wool, silk, and velvet. Clothing and accessories can tell us lots about the people that owned them, including their social standing, jobs, and pastimes.

Materials such as wood, leather, and wool deteriorate due to factors in their environment such as ultraviolet light (the harmful part of daylight that causes sunburns), and biological attack from pests and bacteria. The Mary Rose was preserved thanks to the dark, anoxic (no oxygen, meaning no pests can survive), and stable environment under the silt. Fabrics made of plant fibres such as linen or cotton did not survive, as their structures are more easily digested by bacteria and microbes, so many degraded before the ship was buried beneath the silt. To preserve the textiles after their excavation, conservators carefully removed the silt through washing with conservation-grade detergents, and gentle brushing.

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Often, clothing that was worn the least survives the best, the working classes owned fewer garments, wearing and repairing them until they were exhausted. We often see finer, less worn clothing owned by the upper classes survive. Archaeological sites, such as burials and shipwrecks are exceptions to this rule the clothing found is sometimes brand new (as found in cargo shipwrecks) or not yet worn through.

Pins, thimbles, and bobbins with lengths of silk thread recovered from the Mary Rose show a culture of making and mending on the ship. The crew had to prepare for all eventualities at sea, from repairing holes in the ship, to mending holes in their shoes! A fiddle loom was also found on board, used to weave twine made of hemp into strops for carrying heavy cargo.

On the Mary Rose clothing was found belonging to a range of classes and professions, creating a snapshot of Tudor society. Uniforms were not issued, so clothing reflects popular styles at the time.

Knitted hat 81A3108

One of several knitted hats found on board, hats like this were common at the time (81A3108).

Woollen knitted caps were found, as well as fragments likely from socks and scoggers- a knitted tube that could be worn on the arm or leg. These garments were commonplace at the time, with other examples and styles found in the UK showing a large-scale textile and knitting industry. In the surgeon’s cabin, a fine hat of silk and velvet was found, a symbol of his medical training and standing within the ship. When the Mary Rose sank, the industrial revolution was over 200 years away, meaning the fabrics and clothing aboard were all handmade by highly skilled crafters.

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In the anoxic conditions, many leather objects survived well. Leather artefacts were soaked in Bavon 520s, a lubricating compound which stops shrinkage during drying. Forty-six leather jerkins (a type of sleeveless jacket) were recovered, many with decorative features. Four hundred and twenty-five shoes were found on board, all of them unique to the crew who owned them. The wealthier officers had several pairs of shoes in their chests, and nine pairs of spectacular thigh-high boots were found, unlikely to be practical work shoes but fashionable statements of wealth. Leather mittens used for falconry were discovered within a chest containing other luxury items, likely owned by an officer. Falconry was a popular sport among gentlemen,  Henry VIII himself was a keen falconer.

Expensive dyes such as crimson (Kermes and Cochineal made from insects) or Tyrian Purple were restricted by the upper classes in Tudor times. But that didn’t stop the rest of the population from wearing colourful clothes!

Red wool jerkin 81A4258

This shirt (81A4258) was dyed with rose madder to give it a bright red shade, the dark anoxic environment under the seabed prevented any fading.

One section of a woollen shirt still has its wonderful red colour, made from a popular non-restricted vegetable dye called rose madder. It was found attached to the leather jerkin that was worn over it, protecting the dye from fading. Fragments of a woven shirt also show a red and yellow chequered pattern, someone onboard was a real fashionista!

Checked textile 81A4693

A striking checked pattern can be seen on these fragments of a shirt (81A4693). Patterns like this are made by weaving instead of knitting.

Clothing and accessories can tell us much about the people who lived and worked on the Mary Rose, and you can see many of these incredible objects on display at the Mary Rose Museum.

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